Monitors

Choosing a baby monitor: wifi, no-wifi, and what the range figure means

Video baby monitor screen on a nursery shelf

Choosing a baby monitor: wifi, no-wifi, and what the range figure means

Baby monitors split into two families that look similar on a shelf and behave very differently in a flat. Getting the choice right is mostly a matter of deciding whether you want the nursery on your home network at all.

Closed-link monitors

These pair a camera directly with a handset over their own radio link. Nothing goes through your router, nothing goes to a server, and there is no app. That makes them the simplest option and the one with the smallest attack surface: there is no account to be breached because there is no account.

The trade is that you can only view from the handset, and only within range of the camera. For most families, in a normal-sized home, that is exactly what they wanted anyway.

Wifi monitors

These connect through your router and stream to a phone, which means you can check in from anywhere and often get extra features like cry detection or cloud clips. The trade is that the camera is an internet-connected device in a bedroom, so the manufacturer’s security practices genuinely matter.

If you go this route, look for encrypted streams, two-factor authentication on the account, and a stated policy on firmware updates. A brand that does not publish an update policy is telling you something.

What the range number actually means

Quoted ranges — often something like 1000 or 1800 feet — are measured outdoors with nothing in between. Inside a building, plaster, brick and metal studs all absorb signal, and a triple-decker with thick internal walls will cut that figure dramatically.

Treat the number as a way of comparing models rather than as a promise. In practice, a monitor with a big quoted range will hold a link across a house where a small one drops it.

Battery figures and the screen

The impressive battery numbers on the box almost always assume audio-only mode with the screen off. Leaving a video screen on all night is a completely different load, often a fraction of the quoted time.

If you want the screen on overnight, look for a model that says so explicitly, or plan to keep the parent unit on charge. Neither is a fault; it is just what the number means.

Pan, tilt and zoom

Remote pan and tilt is genuinely useful once a baby starts moving around the cot, because a fixed camera ends up pointing at an empty corner. Optical zoom is rare at this price; most “zoom” is digital and simply crops the image.

Mount the camera where it sees the whole cot at its widest setting, and treat pan and tilt as a way to follow rather than a substitute for good placement.

Night vision and light

Infrared night vision gives a monochrome image without adding light to the room, which is what you want. Cameras that switch on a visible light to see are working against the reason you bought a night light with a warm, dim setting.

Check how close the camera can focus in night mode. Some models lose sharpness at short range, which matters if the camera is mounted on the cot rail rather than across the room.

Safe placement

Cords are the real hazard, not the camera. Every safe-sleep authority is consistent on this: keep cords well clear of the cot, mount the camera at least a metre away, and never run a cable where it can be reached from inside. Wall mounts and cord covers exist for exactly this reason.

We follow the guidance published by paediatric bodies here rather than offering our own; if you want the detail, their websites set it out clearly and are updated as advice changes.

Choosing between two that look the same

Compare in this order: closed-link or wifi, quoted range, battery in the mode you will actually use, pan and tilt, night-vision quality, and mount options. Price sorts itself out after that. Every monitor on the shop page lists those figures, and the counter on East Broadway is happy to talk through a specific layout.

Interference, and why the link drops

Closed-link monitors usually work on 2.4GHz, which is the same band as most home wifi, cordless phones and microwave ovens. A monitor that drops out at a predictable time of day is often competing with something else rather than being out of range.

The practical fixes are cheap: move the camera or the parent unit a metre, change the router’s channel, and keep the parent unit off the top of the router. If the drop-outs follow the microwave, that is not a coincidence and it is not a fault. Monitors that state DECT or FHSS operation are generally more resistant to this than plain 2.4GHz ones.

The short version

  • A closed-link monitor never touches your home network or the internet.
  • Quoted range is line-of-sight; interior walls cut it substantially.
  • Battery figures usually assume screen off and audio only.
  • Wifi models are the ones worth checking for update policy and encryption.

From our shelves

Where to go next

Browse the full range on the shop page, read the frequently asked questions before ordering, or check delivery timing on the Shipping Policy page. If you would rather ask a person, contact us — the phone reaches the counter.

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